Encarnación is a city of contrasts, where traditions and technologies march together in a colorful blend; the newest luxury SUV’s share the streets with horse driven carriages.
by Ezequiel Mesquita
Founded in 1615 by Jesuit missionary St. Roque Gonzalez de Santa Cruz, the town has ancient roots but no trace of the 
original settlement remains. Historical records tell of a natural disaster on September 20, 1926 that completely destroyed the town. A tornado a quarter of a mile wide, with winds up to 120 miles per hour swept through the little community and claimed hundreds of lives. Two brave German residents, the town priest, Joseph Kreusser and another man, George Memmel, crossed the two mile wide river in a canoe to ask for help on the Argentine side. To this day, the people of the town still warmly remember the boat bridge across the Paraná River that was hurriedly organized to save the survivors.
The city’s center of social and financial activities has moved uphill to “Zona Alta” or high zone. But all the hustle and bustle of everyday commerce remains in the old district known as “Zona Baja” or low zone which is closer to the river that borders Paraguay and Argentina. The majestic twenty five hundred mile long Parana River, second only to the mighty Amazon River, both separates and joins Encarnacion with a city ten times its size, Posadas, Argentina. Of the two countries, Paraguay’s customs regulations are the most lenient so electronic gadgets flow down the river to Posadas and much needed money flows back.
The river is also a source of many species of fish that are important for the food supply, and huge new hydroelectric dams, the world largest Itaipu and the Yacyreta, have been constructed to supply power to the neighboring countries of Paraguay, Argentina, and Brazil. The dams are also a source of continuing controversy. There is a major concern down stream from the dams that a catastrophic rupture could occur causing tremendous damage and loss of life. Another problem is the relocation of people that were living in the areas now flooded by the backed up water behind the dams. The displaced settlers feel the compensation they receive from the government is not enough to cover the real and emotional cost of being uprooted from their homes. Additionally, the local retailers fear losing their customer base and maybe even being forced out of business.
The capital of the southern department (the Paraguayan equivalent of a state) of Itapúa, Encarnación has been blessed by the Maker with the most fertile land in the area and the town has a distinctive rural flavor. The surrounding country side of rolling hills are heavily farmed with green fields of corn, wheat, and soybeans which have brought immense prosperity to the populace in the vicinity due to a worldwide demand for such agricultural products. This was a godsend relief at a time the argentine peso had been devalued during a period of recession.
The pastoral ambiance of the town is emphasized by weekly farmer fairs where individuals can purchase all sorts of fresh country foodstuffs such as vegetables, and fruits, as well as piglets, rabbits, and chickens. But Encarnación is indeed a cosmopolitan city and has a generous blend of Spanish, Native, European, and Asian residents, who mostly are involved with the prevailing local agrarian economy. First came the Ukrainians and the Germans followed by the Japanese. The most recent groups to immigrate have been the Chinese and the Arabians who have established many of the electronic businesses in town.
The most recognizable form of transportation is a horse pulled cart affectionately known in the native Guarani language as a “karumbe” which translates to turtle in English. They are painted a bright yellow and are constructed 
entirely of wood. They were originally designed in 1942 to solve the fuel shortage problem during World War II and were fabricated using old unused Ford Model T axles and wheels. They were so popular that by 1970 there were more than 250 registered carts. Even today they serve as cabs and are the preferred mode of travel by tourist. Many other carriage types can be observed carrying milk, firewood, or vegetables. With so many horse drawn carts and carriages on the streets and dirt roads, the pace of life is not what many Americans would call “life in the fast lane”. There is no fast lane. A honking horn only means one thing; another tourist is in a hurry and has lost his or her patience.
Trying to find a wealthy or poor neighborhood in Encarnacion is impossible. Mansions sit alongside shacks and the well heeled walk beside the barefoot. But beware, being barefoot does not necessarily mean one is in dire straits. Rather, it is a matter of conforming to the local native customs dictated by the warm climate in this part of the world.
A magnificent piece of living history is the steam engine that beats in time to the city’s pulse and triggers childish fantasies as she pulls boxcars from the International Bridge to the grain elevators. Her eerie whistle and smell of burning wood fill one’s soul with a deep appreciation for a way of life that is quickly disappearing. This train is maybe the last one in South America that earns 
a living and the crew is proudly devoted to the task of keeping the old iron relic running.
Every year, Encarnacion prepares for a colorful carnival; a brilliant feast of music, fancy dresses, lights and beauty in the style of Rio De Janeiro. But only on a smaller scale and without the excesses and violence for which the one in Rio has become famous. During the carnival season, the population of the city is doubled with visitors from Asuncion, the capitol city of Paraguay, and other countries. People from all walks of life give generously of their labor, skill, and time for many months sewing dresses, making ornaments, and choreographing dances for the different clubs and districts. They do all this for a parade that only lasts a half hour or less each night
for two weekends, or four nights in total.
Each December 8th, almost the entire town marches in grateful and devoted pilgrimage to the sanctuary of her patroness, the Holy Virgin of Itacua, located five miles from downtown on a wooded hill by the river. The Guaraní word, Itacua, means “hole n the stone”. The place is holy because a statue of the Virgin Mary was miraculously found in a hole there.
These are some of the most recognizable features of this beautiful land, where the most diverse cultures have come together to blend harmoniously with each other in a respectful way. The Guaraní were the ancient natives that first inhabited the area where Encarnacion now exists and, to this day, all Paraguayans speak both Spanish and the native language, Guaraní.
Note: The Author wants to thank fellow photoblogger Mr. John Hyden, from “Bluefrog” (http://home.wi.rr.com/hyden/) for correcting the original text.
